Hot rooms upstairs and a high power bill often start with holes in the ceiling. We find them and seal them before insulation goes on.
Attic air sealing in Lake Charles means closing the holes in your ceiling between the attic and the rooms below, so the air you pay to cool stays in the house instead of leaking up into the attic.
If the rooms upstairs run hot or the hallway feels drafty even with insulation overhead, air is usually slipping through gaps under it. Insulation slows heat, but it doesn't stop air, so a gap around a can light or the hatch keeps leaking right through it. Sealing those holes saves energy, lowers the power bill and helps keep moisture problems out of the attic.
The price moves with how many openings your attic has, how easy they are to reach and how much has to come out of the way first, like stored boxes, attic flooring or old insulation. The schedule turns on anything that needs fixing before we seal and whether you add insulation in the same project. Your estimate spells out what I found and the work it covers.
Sealing over a problem just hides it, so a few things have to be handled before we start. I check for each of these when I look your attic over.
A roof that leaks needs fixing before we seal, because a tighter ceiling won't help if water is still getting into the attic. A bath fan that blows into the attic needs to be ducted outside first, so damp air leaves the house instead of soaking the insulation. If I see either one, I show you and we plan around it.
A federal attic sealing guide says to wait until there's no active knob and tube wiring, the old kind strung on porcelain knobs, and no vermiculite, a pebbly gray-brown loose fill. Both turn up in older houses, and neither should be buried or worked over. If I find either one, we sort out the next step before any sealing starts.
The same guide puts an unvented kerosene heater or gas fireplace on the fix-first list. Those burn inside the room, and a tighter house gives their fumes fewer ways out, so we'd want that settled before we close the ceiling up. Tell me if you have one when you call, and we'll talk it through on site.
Here's how a job goes from your first call to the walkthrough, and who you'll be dealing with at each step. Nothing goes into your attic until you've seen what I found.
Call (337) 474-1146 or send the form, and tell us what you're noticing, whether that's a hot room upstairs, a drafty hall or a high power bill. We'll set a time for me to come out.
I come out myself, look over the attic floor, flues, vents and roof deck, then measure and write down what I find. Your estimate lays out the sealing, any fix-first items and how it fits with insulation.
If you go ahead, we check permit needs with the city or parish office that covers your address. Then our crew does the work the estimate describes, starting with the big leaks and finishing with the small gaps.
When we're done, we walk you through the job and show you what we sealed, the vents we left open on purpose and anything we noticed along the way. If insulation comes next, that's the next part of the plan.
We work from the big leaks down to the small ones. Big leaks usually sit where a dropped ceiling or a pipe or duct chase opens into the attic, and behind kneewalls, the short walls along a sloped ceiling. Smaller gaps around can lights, pipes and the hatch get caulk or foam, and we pull back insulation to reach where the walls meet the attic floor.
Around a furnace or water heater flue we use materials made for the heat, like the flashing, heat-resistant caulk and metal dam ENERGY STAR calls for, because foam doesn't belong against a hot pipe. Soffit, ridge and gable vents and combustion air ducts stay open so they keep working. Sealing is usually the first half of retrofit insulation, and when ducts run up there, spray foam insulation comes into it.
We close the gaps, then blow loose fill over the attic floor with the edges as deep as the middle and the eave vents clear. It's the one I usually pick, because it fixes the leaks without foam's price.
Foam costs more, but it seals air while it insulates. When your ductwork runs through the attic, foaming the roofline brings those ducts inside the sealed space, and that's when the extra cost usually makes sense.
Send the form and we'll reply within one business day to set a time for me to come look at your attic. Mention any stored boxes, attic flooring and whether you plan to add insulation, so I come ready. The estimate is free and comes with no obligation.
(337) 474-1146In Lake Charles, the city's Permit Center issues building, electrical, plumbing, gas and mechanical permits, and Calcasieu Parish requires a permit before any construction or remodeling project, with a permit official taking questions at 337-721-3610. Neither list names air sealing by itself, so we check with the city or parish office that covers your address before work starts. If your job needs a permit, we apply for it and keep you posted.
We're based in Lake Charles and work in the cities around it, including Sulphur and Moss Bluff. What we see in attics around here is fairly steady: old insulation packed down near the hatch, can lights cut into upstairs ceilings, and flues running up through the middle of the house. Those are the spots we check first, wherever the house is.
I learned this work on a municipal crew, where every job got written up and checked before anyone signed off. We've been in business since 2023, and I still come out to look at the attic and write the estimate myself. Our crew does the work, with me or a lead installer on site.
We're licensed and insured. If I find a roof leak, wet wood or wiring that needs a look, I show you and we plan around it before anything gets sealed or covered, because catching it early is the whole point of looking first. To set that up, call (337) 474-1146 or send us the form.
When the attic already has some insulation but not enough, adding to it right after sealing keeps you from opening the attic up twice.
If your ducts run through a hot attic, foaming the roofline can seal and insulate in one pass.
We're based in Lake Charles and seal attics in the cities around it, including Sulphur, Jennings and Orange, TX, plus Moss Bluff and Prien. If you're nearby and don't see your city, call and ask.
Yes. When you add insulation to an existing vented attic, federal guidance says to seal every opening in the attic floor first, so sealing becomes step one of the same project. Once new insulation is on top, those gaps are buried and much harder to reach, and the insulation ends up fighting a draft.
Tell us what's up there, because that shapes the plan. A big load of stored boxes may need moving and somewhere to sit while we work, and any flooring over the attic floor has to come up before we seal. Where that flooring helps hold the structure, a federal guide says the support gets replaced first, such as with collar ties, boards that tie opposite rafters together.
There's no set price, because every attic is different, so I give you a number after I've been up there. Beyond the number of gaps, it moves with how tight the attic is to work in, how much flue work there is, whether foam or caulk fits each gap, and whether insulation goes in the same trip.
It depends on the size of the attic and how much has to come out of the way first, so I give you the plan on your estimate rather than a guess on the phone. Sealing is done with caulk, foam and flashing from the attic side, so you usually don't need to leave. If any part of your job is different, I tell you before we start.
The state licensing board for contractors says a home improvement project worth over $7,500 and up to $50,000 has to be bid or done by a home improvement registrant or a licensed contractor. In Lake Charles, the city's Permit Center also licenses construction trades. Ask any contractor which one they hold before you sign.
Call Lake Charles Insulation Company at (337) 474-1146 or use the form, and I'll show you every gap I find before you decide anything.
